Problem:
When channel levels are brought up, the load (lamp, motor, etc.) operates for a brief moment then goes off. A second or so later, it comes back on. The problem appears cyclical or intermittent.
Cause:
When a lead-acid battery is measured with no load it reads approximately 12V. This is true even for a substantially discharged battery. RC4 electronics require very little current to operate, and a discharged battery still provides enough power for the receiver to come on and indicate traffic.
Here’s the problem cycle:
- When RF control data indicates an output level, the output driver delivers battery power to the load. If the battery is under-rated or under-charged, voltage will drop substantially under load.
- When the battery voltage drops much below 5V the RC4 receiver will shut down. This disconnects the load from the battery.
- With the load disconnected, battery voltage drifts back up. (It eventually drifts back up to 12V, unless the battery is seriously damaged). When battery voltage climbs above 6V, the RC4 receiver comes back on and starts monitoring control data again.
…And the cycle starts all over again.
In some cases, exactly the same symptoms are caused by undersized wire or poor connections between the battery and the RC4 receiver. These cause resistance, resulting in a voltage drop at the receiver when the load increases (Ohm’s Law).
This cycle through steps 1, 2, 3 and back to 1, results in the symptom described. The actual cycle time varies with battery size, battery charge, the size of the load, power levels selected, and wire sizes used. Eventually the battery is damaged and fails to drift back up enough to continue the cycle.
To prove this is happening, put a volt-meter across the power input terminals at the RC4 receiver. The voltage will drop when the load comes on. When the voltage drops enough, the load will go off. When the voltage drifts back up enough, the load will switch back on.
If these voltage fluctuations are apparent at the receiver but not at the battery terminals, then wire and connections are at fault — you must conduct adequate current from the battery to the receiver to avoid these unwanted voltage drops.
Solutions:
- Be sure the battery is rated large enough for the intended load for the operating time you require. Prove this by directly connecting the battery to the load and testing without the wireless system in the circuit at all.
- Ensure the battery is fully charged using a smart charger that accurately detects the condition of the battery.
- Be sure wire gauges are large enough, especially between the battery and the receiver/dimmer.
- Be sure connections are tight and strong. Hot wires or connections are probably causing problems.